Sunday, December 6, 2009

Oops its been almost a month since my last post...

I cannot believe it has almost been a whole month since my last post...and what a great month it has been.  I left off my last post in Guatamala and I have managed to cover 3 more countries since: El Salvador, Nicaragua, and I now find myself in Costa Rica.  Let me see how quickly I can get this thing up to date!
After leaving Semuc Champey Guatamala we headed for Antigua.  Antigua was yet another fabulous colonial city with cobblestone streets and endless streets that all seemed to look the same.  Antigua was cold and rainy but we somehow managed to squeek out some memorable moments ;)  We visited Pacaya the volcano about 1.5 hours outside of Antigua.  Let me preface this by saying the hike was incredibly hard.  So incredibly hard that I couldn't make it all the way to the top to witness the flowing lava.  Although I was super bummed at my lack of physical prowess, I did get to see the photos which looked incredibly dangerous!

Pacaya's flowing lava!

 
Looks scary to me!
Aside from the volcano we also spent lots of time wandering the streets, eating the food, and drinking the local beer. We were lucky enough to run into some friends from Alaska we had met in Flores. They are a group of 6: Andrea, Angela, Sean, Kim, Joe, and Jaymes and we all have become very close and have continued to travel together! Before we left Antigua we stumbled upon a celebration in the zocalo and stuffed ourselves with all the delicious food!


Yummy market food stalls!

From Antigua we headed for Santa Ana, El Salvador.  We hopped on the bus headed for the border expecting little problems.  How wrong we were.  The border crossing into El Salvador required the border agents to inspect and revise everything that you are bringing into the country.  The agents boarded the bus and while we were waiting our turn for them to stamp our passports we see out the window that one of the agents is pulling out all of the contents of Lalo's piercing supply box.  We grabbed our stuff and hopped off of the bus.  The driver tried to help us out by offering a little bribe but to no avail the agents wanted reciepts and paperwork for all the jewelry and needles in the box.  Without this paperwork they were going to confiscate the box. We refused and stayed with the box as we watched our bus we just each paid 120 quetzales for roll on into El Salvador.  After several frustrating hours they finally decided we could simply pay a $20 tax and be on our way.  Our only problem now was that it was dark, our bus left, and we had no ride into Santa Ana, our predetermined destination.  We were probably a little crazy for doing so, but we hitched a ride with a truck driver into Santa Ana.  The story from here gets even better.  The truck we hitched a ride with was overloaded and so we crawled to Santa Ana.  A ride that normally should take 1 hour took at least 2.  The truck was filled with valuables so a police escort followed closely behind us (sounds safe!).  Once we arrived in Santa Ana, the police escort took us into the city.  We were dropped at the gas station and found a taxi to take us to a hostal listed in my Lonely Planet.  Upon arriving to the hostal our cab driver informed us we were in a sketchy area known as la puteria or the prostitution zone.  One look around and I knew he was right.  He offered to take us to another hostal closer to the main plaza.  By this time it was around 10pm and we were starving.  We found another place that charged $10 for the night...perfect!  Or NOT!  We took a quick look at the room and hastily agreed it would do for the night.  It looked somewhat clean and was in the main area of town.  After unloading all of our stuff I took a better look around the room and noticed the sign on the wall which listed the prices for the room...by the hour!  There was also a switch on the wall for music..in case things got too loud!  The creeper running the place just smiled when I said "so you can rent the room by the hour?".  Needless to say we slept in our clothes that night on tried to touch as few things as possible.  We were out of there as quickly as possible in the morning.  We found little to do in Santa Ana other than a visit to the gothic style cathedral.

 

After Santa Ana, we opted for the beach.  We decided on a little surf spot called El Tunco.  We found a great little hostal called Papaya's Lodge, owned by local surfing legend Jaime Delgado.  We were excited to yet again run into our friends from Alaska and proceeded to spend the next 10 days relaxing, partying, and eating in El Tunco.  El Tunco is a magical tiny little surf village filled with fabulously friendly people, amazing fresh seafood, and a totally relaxing atmosphere.  We met lots of local surfers, featured in magazines and famous in the surfing community.  Although I don't surf and wasn't interested in attempting it in 10 foot waves, we enjoyed the company of our new friends.  Several times we went into town and bought fresh seafood at the pier.  We had a seafood stew with shrimp and lobster one night and the next sauteed shrimp with butter and garlic.  So cheap and so delicious! 



Playa Tunco


Crowded bus to Libertad

El muelle for fresh seafood
We hadn't planned on staying in El Tunco for 10 days but it seemed like we never wanted to leave.  We met lots of cool locals and were even joined for a couple of days by our friend Miguel from Oaxaca and his girlfriend.  We had planned on making our way to Honduras but 2 days before we planned to leave the border closed.  There was some political unrest due to upcoming elections.  Instead of heading to Honduras we decided to follow our friends to San Salvador for the night and then off to Nicaragua at 4am. 
Arriving in San Salvador after our Tunco visit was a bit overwhelming.  San Salvador is a bustling, noisy city filled with chain restaurants and luxurious hotels.  We all decided we were going to treat ourselves to sushi at the nearby Intercontinental Hotel.  When we went to scope out the hotel we had the pleasure of running into my friend Brady and his mom.  I knew he was stationed in El Salvador and we had talked several times about meeting up but with our extended stay in El Tunco I wasn't sure we were going to make it happen.  To my surprise Brady and his mom were checking in to the hotel right as we were checking it out.  We got to share a few beers and stories over sushi later that night.  It was really nice!  We had to wake up the following morning at 4am to catch our bus to Nicaragua so our meeting was short but very sweet. 
So many times along this trip I have had people tell me about the danger of travelling to certain areas.  My dad almost shit his pants when I told him I was travelling in El Salvador, through Honduras and Nicaragua.  I think his exact words were "get the fuck out of there as soon as you can!".  However, I have never seen such beautiful country or met so many fabulous people.  Of course there are dangers everywhere you go, BUT my experiences have been overwhelmingly positive.  I cannot imagine missing out on anything that I have seen so far, and am sure that I will never quite be the same.  I have found myself telling myself many times along the way "wow, look at where I am right now!" and often times cannot really believe it.  Travelling has been such a wonderful experience and my only complaint is that it has sparked a hunger for more.  I want to see it all and experience it all!
That's all for now...more to come soon!
Adios...Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Lanquin/Semuc Champey...Indescribable beauty!

Our shuttle ride from Flores to Lanquin was an interesting one to say the least.  We paid 150 quetzales each for a DIRECT ride to Semuc Champey.  We were told it would be a 7 hour ride.  It was neither direct, nor 7 hours.  More than 10 hours later, 3 of which were spent in a cramped collectivo bobbling down an unpaved curvy road with a driver talking on his cell phone the whole time, we arrived in Lanquin.  As if that weren't enough we encountered 2 snags...the first was about 2 hours in to the trip when we came to a river which required a small ferry boat to cross.  Unaware of any accident I slyly remarked..."there is only one ferry for all these cars" (there were probably over 100 waiting!).  Turns out a semi had tried to maneuver itself onto the ferry when it began to pull away from the shore...this was the result:

Oops!


They had to just destroy the semi to get it out!
I figured this would delay our trip by several hours but fortunately it was only about a 45 minute delay!  The second snag came when we arrived in Coban around 3:30..we left at 9...already 6.5 hours in...the driver slyly told us that he would no longer be able to continue to Semuc Champey or Lanquin and we would have to switch to another bus.  We griped heavily because again we paid for a DIRECT shuttle...needless to say we all (minus 2 Dutch girls who decided it was too dangerous to travel this way and at night) smashed into a collectivo.  Our friend Sam was part of our group too! It didn't leave until 4:30 but we needed to stay on the bus in order to secure our spots....7.5 hours into the trip!  Better yet we were informed the trip to Lanquin, which we were told would take 1.5 hours, was actually a 3-3.5 hour ride depending on how many people they could pack into that thing!  They packed it....we crawled through the hilly ride.  When we arrived in Lanquin around 8:00 pm the extra 45 minute ride to Semuc was impossible.  We stayed in Lanquin and I am SOOO happy we did.  Our friend Sam had heard of a new hostal that had just opened 2 months earlier called the Zephyr.  I had only read about a hostal called El Retiro which is where all the travellers stay when they come to Lanquin...we had a much better experience!  This was it:


Nestled in the mountains, next to Rio Lanquin, and run by some wonderful people, we couldn't have asked for a better place to stay in such a beautiful surrounding.  The hostal offers nightly community dinners cooked using all fresh ingredients and priced around $4.50!  Elle, along with some of their Guatamalteca employees cooked awesome meals including: red peppers stuffed with rice and meat with a beet and bean salad, homemade pasta with a creamy vegetable sauce, borshed (sp?) soup, and even a chocolate cake for Lalo's birthday!  We were in heaven!  If homecooked meals weren't enough they had a baker come in every night to bake fresh bead, cinnamon buns, and rolls for the following day.  To all my fellow Breadsmithers: I spent about an hour chatting with the baker and he definately gives our bread a run for its money! 


Happy Birthday Lalito!
And if homemade meals and fresh baked bread still don't impress you let me tell you about the showers.  The showers had piping hot water, great water pressure, and a view that can't be beat.  Now when you haven't had a decent shower in months, things like hot water and water pressure become really important!  No joke...myself and the other guests had about a ten minute conversation raving about the showers!  
Although the Zephry is foreign owned, they employ plenty of local Guatamaltecos.  One by the name of Otto, who was our guide, quickly became our friend!  He was truly an amazing man and made our trip to the caves and pools at Semuc-Champey unforgettable! 
We decided to do the tour of Semuc with a couple other people from the hostal, with our guide Otto.  The day started bight and early at 9am.  We woke up a bit hung-over as we partied at the hostal bar the night before.  There were several birthdays we just HAD to celebrate!  Nothing like a day full of adventure to cure a hang over.  Now i'm going to admit I pretty much had no idea what I was getting myself into when I signed up to do this Semuc tour.  All I really knew was that there were natural pools that you can swim in.  I should have been warned.  Although I may seem adventurous at heart, physically I am NOT!  The tour started in the caves in Semuc.  Now these caves are not like the caves we visited in Flores because they are filled with water.  We were asked to strip down to our suits, our flip-flops were tied to our feet, and we left behind anything of value. 


We were going to swim, wade, and scale our way through this cave.  Almost immediately I wanted to quit.  The chill of the water hitting my body quickly sent a shock telling me DANGER, DANGER.  Well, I did not turn around or quit!  I made my way though this cave...and without experiencing it, I don't quite know how to describe it.  All I can say is that if this tour existed in the states you would have to sign about 1,000 waivers before entering.  At one point you have to scale a ladder with a waterfall running down it.  Not a small waterfall either.  A couple of the guys chose to scale the waterfall...there was a rope inside the waterfall and they scaled it with water gushing in their face.  When asked if I wanted to try it I promptly replied...UM NO!  It was Awesome and I felt so cool that I did it...everone else thought it was equally as cool but didn't find it nearly as terrifying!
Next on the tour was a swing.  Now this swing swung out into a rapidly running river and you probably jumped 15 feet into the water.  I DID IT!  Scared to death and screaming all the way down but I did it.  I was also afraid of being swept down river so I swam like hell to get back to shore!
Next, we hawled an innertube up river where we encountered several waterfalls.  In order to cross over to the entrance of the waterfalls you needed to cross some swiftly moving water.  Otto threw a rope to a fallen tree and we pulled ourselves across.  Poor Lalo was close to drowning, when life jacket and all, he began to panic and couldn't pull himself across.  I was really scared for him but he managed to make it back to the tree.  He chose not to go to this waterfall.

Just to the left of the large waterfall you can see where I jumped 10 meters or about 30 feet to the river below.  It was so f$#%ing scary and it really hurt my ass!
I made it across and once across our guide gave us two choices: jump or climb back the way we came which in his words was "really dangerous".  I jumped!  HOLY SHIT, I JUMPED 10 METERS or almost 30 feet!  WTF!
We then tubed down the river and although Lalo was hesitant to get back in the water, he did it too!  We made it back to our starting point, had some lunch and began our hike to El Mirador or the Lookout.  This hike sucked!  It was uphill, super muddy, and I did it in flip-flops.  The view was worth it however:


Below you can see the natural pools that we swam in after our hike!
After our hike, we climbed back down and were able to relax in these wonderful pools that sit above a river that gushes through a natural cave/tunnel.  Our guide Otto told us of 3 people who had died curiously trying to touch the gushing water and their bodies didn't come out the other end for 45 days! 


Entrance to the tunnel under the pools


Lalo, our friend Sam, and our guide Otto relaxing in the pools!


Unbelievable beauty!

We also celebrated Lalo's birthday in Semuc Champey which was a little hard since we were so secluded.  I felt guilty that I didn't have a present to give or anything.  We did however, manage to get in a chocolate cake (see above photo!).  Before we left Semuc we threw in another night cave visit (again where I wanted to leave almost as soon as we entered).  The caves in Lanquin are interesting because each night as the sunsets (about 5:45) thousands...and I mean thousands...of bats fly out.  There are hardly ANY mosquitos in this highly forrested and wet area thanks to all these bats!  The cave is completely dark and the bats pretty much fly right at you without hitting you...not my idea of fun!  We explored the cave a bit and made the long walk back to the hostal in complete darkness...yikes! 

Great shot!



All I can say is that Semuc Champey was an adventure of a lifetime!  If ever in Guatamala it is something that cannot be missed!  Everyday I am surprising myself with the things that I get to experience along the way.  Although I find myself missing my family and my life at times, how can I leave behind these adventures when they are right at my finger tips!  I do get freaked out everytime I hear another friend just had a baby or is pregnant or even when someone gets engaged or married...I'm almost 27 and don't have any of those things...but for now I am going to settle (ha settle) for these adventures! 
Adios..Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Monday, November 9, 2009

Flores, Tikal, San Miguel

It may take me a couple posts to get this thing up to date.  I always have the best intentions of posting more often but things keep getting in my way :)
Flores was a great little island town, very colonial and laid back.  We once again managed to meet some really cool friends in our hostel Los Amigos...one friend in particular named Sam from California.  His adventures would make even the homiest of homebodies jealous!  We happened to be travelling to the next few places together and got to know him pretty well (he took a dump in his tube while floating in Semuc Champey...sorry Sam!)  Los Amigos was a great little hostel with its own vegetarian restaurant and bar.  We hung out there quite a bit. 


Los Amigos


The island of Flores

Flores became our jumping off point to visit the ruins of Tikal...the Guatamalan equivalent of Chichen Itza.  We had to leave for the ruins at 5am in order to get there for a sunrise view and also when there are less people around.  Unfortunately we only encountered rain and lots of it.  We paid 150 quetzales (about $18) each for a ride there and back and a guide.  Entrance fee is another 150 quetzales...well worth the visit, however our guide was less than great.  Basically he just showed us around the place and talked for about 15 minutes of a 4 hour tour.  Lalo and I enjoyed ourselves regardless climbing towers IV and V and tromping forever in the rain and mud.  Temple V was by far the coolest only it involved 105 super steep steps to get to the top...and once you get to the top there is nothing keeping you from falling off the edge!  I have never known myself to be afraid of heights but that sure did it for me!  I found myself gripping the edge and walking VERY slowly!  Tikal has a very ancient vibe to it and you can't help but wonder who these people were that constucted these amazing cities! 



Temple V


Terribly scary steps (all 105)
As if walking through Tikal all day weren't enough, we met a guy who offered to take us to the city of San Miguel just across the lake from Flores for 50 quetzales.  We hiked all around the city and saw some amazing views of the island, a secluded beach, and climbed a tower with a 360 degree view.  We spent about 3 hours exploring and our tour ended with a beatiful rainbow over lake Peten Itza. 

San Miguel



Before we left Flores for our fabulous Lanquin/Semuc Champey visit we also visited the Grutas Actun-Can (caves).  I was totally frightened and pretty much from the moment we entered the cave I wanted to leave.  It may have been different if there were more people with us but it was just Lalo and I and he found it quite hilarious to scare me around every corner...I did not!  Luckily the caves were lit and fairly easy to maneuver...we went without a guide. 


Las Grutas


Very scary!
The last week or so has been filled with adventure, lots of exercise, and some pretty terrifying feats.  Although I have been pretty scared I have managed to come out of just about all of them saying to myself in the end...I can't believe I did that!  Guatamala has been full of adventure and true true natural beauty.  Never in my life have I seen such amazing natural vistas!  If only I could share it with all of you!
Adios...Besitos..Nos vemos pronto!

Thursday, October 29, 2009

So long, Farewell Belize...Bienvenidos a Guatamala!

Belize was a wonderfully relaxing experience (for the most part).  It seems the whole country is super laid backed and I would be surprised to hear about anyone having a wild, rawdy time there.  After Caye Caulker we hopped back on the water taxi to Belize City and left right away for Placencia.  We stayed a couple of days but were feeling a little "beached-out".  (Yeah, yeah I know there is snow in MN and i'm feeling "beached out"...) We sort of just relaxed in the hammocks, ate, and explored the small little town.  I would like to go back some day and see it in high-season when there are a few more people around.  I think the small beach bars could be pretty fun with some more people.  After Placencia we headed for Punta Gorda.  We took another water taxi from Placencia to Independence and took yet another bus to "PG" as it is called.  The bus terminals in Belize are basically just a parking lot big enough for a bus to fit in.  There is no one to tell you when the next bus comes or leaves so its all just kind of a guessing game.  The bus terminal in Belize City is an absolute nightmare with people trying to hassle you/help you get to where you want to go.  In Belize there is a very fine line between hassling and helping.  People in Belize are very friendly but more often than not their friendliness is really annoying.  
In PG I had a mild meltdown for really no apparent reason.  Could just be tired from travelling so much, could be missing my family, could be tired of a certain person I am traveling with...could be a combination of all three.  I decided I was leaving and heading back...I got as far as Belize City.  Seven hours of sitting on the bus gave me some time to think and I decided I really didn't want to leave.  Luckily Lalo had followed on the next bus and we met up again in Belize City.  Although our plan had been to enter Guatamala in Livingston via ferry from PG, we managed to make it to Guatamala via Benque, Belize.  I'm feeling much better (still a little crabby...don't know why?) and really glad I decided to come. 
We made it to Flores after a 3 hour bus ride to Benque, taxi to the border, taxi to the Guatamalan collectivo, and finally 3 hour collectivo ride.  Flores seems to be a wonderfully charming island town.  We're only about 1.5 hours from Tikal (the major Mayan site here in Guatamala) so I imagine we'll make our way there.  We're also a little "ruined-out" as we've seen so many.  I've heard it's incredibly hot there too which doesn't sound too appealing.  We found a great little hostal with a private room for only 80 quetzales....less than $10.  It has it's own restaurant and bar and is super cool!  We walked around last night and got something to eat...today we're gonna go explore the city.  It's super hot and humid here...I had the forearm sweats at 9:00 pm last night if that tells you anything about how hot it is.  It's also super challenging to instantaneously change forms of currency.  As soon as you cross the border everything is in Quetzales and its super confusing.  I now think in dollars, pesos, Belizean dollars, and hopefully soon quetzales.  To complicate matters just a little more Lalo thinks in pesos.  I usually have to convert one currency to dollars then to pesos before we both know how much something really costs. 
The last week was an interesting one but great at the same time.  I'm looking forward to seeing more of Guatamala.  I'll try to update more frequently! 
Adios...Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Mexico, Denver, Mexico, Belize....





Holy crap it has been an eventful couple of weeks!
I flew back to Denver for my best friends wedding in Denver last week.  It was truly amazing and I was so excited to be apart of it all...crappy weather and all!  It was COLD!  I was happy to not be sweating balls the whole time though!  It was also wonderful to see my parents and college friends again!  I got to enjoy some of the amenities America has to offer...flushing toilet paper down the toilet, sitting on the toilet seat, hot showers, clothes that fit me right...but ironically I missed alot of Mexico too!  Mainly the food!  Sorry America...but your food SUCKS!  Mexican food is so much better and tastier!  It was fabulous to spend some time with my mom and dad as well who were super excited to see me and to prove it...bought me stuff! I'm pretty lucky to have such a GREAT family!
After a one week stay in Denver, I flew back into Cancun and hopped on a bus back to Playa del Carmen.  Mi amorcito Lalo was waiting for me at the bus stop and had dinner and wine waiting for me in the hostal.  It was fabulous!  One week apart after months of non-stop togetherness did us some good!  The bickering is cut in half...hahah!
Pretty much as soon as I arrived in Mexico, we left for BELIZE!  My whole life I have always wanted to go to Belize without knowing really anything about it!  We hopped on a a bus from Playa to Chetumal which is the Mexican border town...not really much to see there!  We crossed the border in an old American school bus (warning placards and all) not really knowing at all what we were getting ourselves into...
The border agent was unfriendly and very firm only giving us 15 days in Belize...probably best since now that I am here I could see staying for awhile! 
Pretty much as soon as we crossed the border into Corozal, an extremely sleepy little Belizean town, we realized we were not in Kansas anymore (or Mexico).  The people mostly speak English (think Bob Marley rastafarian English) but also creole and Spanish.  The people themselves are mutts (I mean that in the best way!)  They are a beautiful mix of pretty much every surrounding country near or far...including Asian, African, French, American, Mexican, Guatamalan, European...it's a truly unique mix.  We stayed in a cute little guest house and spent most of our time relaxing.  After about three days we decided to move on to Belize City...
The way most Belizeans talk about Belize City you expect to be murdered the moment you step off the bus.  Because the country is only about 300,000 people any crime that exists is heavily reported.  Just like any major city, crime can be a problem but fortunately we didn't experience any.  We found another guest house for around $17 per night with plans to leave on the ferry for San Pedro or Caye Caulker in the morning.  We met a French Canadian on the bus in the way in who followed us to the hostal and we all shared a traditional meal of stewed chicken, rice and beans along with several Belikin beers (the national beer).  We met several locals who were extremely friendly!  The Belizean people have been EXTREMELY friendly (almost over the top!) We have been welcomed to their country about 176 times! and everyone is eager to offer advice or services.  It's quite refreshing but I must admit I was a bit weary at first expecting people only wanting to take advantage.  I think in a country of 300,000 they realize tourism needs to be a big draw!  Especially on the islands...
Our first glance at Belize didn't quite fulfill my fantasies...until we got to Caye Caulker.  It is a small island of about 2,000 people, only a 40 minute ferry ride from Belize City.  The island, although a bit rustic, has such an extreme caribbean laid back atmosphere I can understand why people come and never want to leave.  Although our "guest house" (as hostals are called here) is lacking in many amenities...including water that doesn't reek so bad of sulphur you have to hold your nose...we are quite enjoying ourselves!  Tomorrow we are going on a snorkeling tour of the reefs just off the islands! 
Belize has brought new challenges including understand the "English" (a mix of rastafarian English and Creole) and translating for Lalo who asks about every 2 seconds "que dice" or what did they say??  It is frustrating for me because before I can even process what they are saying he is asking me what they are saying...I am the "TRANSLATOR"!  We're practicing English and working on the "que dice"...hahah. 
So once again I have found myself adapting and changing in a new environment.  I quite like it!  My first feeling any time we go somewhere new is that I want to go back to what I know...but after 2 days or so I feel much differently.  Travelling truly has been a lesson in adaptation!  It's a challenge...but just the other day I thought to myself..."I'm never going to be the same after these experiences!" 

Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

What fun!

Today we had a super fun day in Akumal snorkling.  I was so proud of my little Lalito (who 3 months ago couldn't even float let alone swim) when he managed to snorkel the deep waters without even so much as a whimper.  I, on the other hand, am quite the whimp after my jelly-fish experience.  I am super freaked by even the smallest thing floating in the water...that experience freaked me out more than I thought it did. 
We saw lots of reef fish with bright blue and yellow stripes, all different kinds of coral, and we even got to see a sea turtle eating some sea grass.  He was super tranquil and didn't care much that we were following him around checking him out. 
What fun to experience it all with a snorkel-virgin!  We have so much fun together it's kind of ridiculous.  I have never spent so much continuous time with someone without getting annoyed.  We are seriously together 24 hours a day and it couldn't be any more fun!

Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

How fortunate I am...

How fortunate I am to have grown up with so many experiences!
Many are not so fortunate...
For example:
I know how to swim (definately take that for granted)
I know how to snorkel (or at least how to put the fins and mask on)
I know how to drive a car (automatic that is)
I know how to ride a bike
I know how to make pancakes
I know how to roast a marshmallow (it does not involve sticking it directly into the flame!)
I've been surprised by the people i've met that don't know how to do these things that seem so common and normal. 
On the contrary, I am quickly learning how many things I do not know how to do...
I don't know how to light a gas stove (that doesn't light itself)
I don't know how to cook rice (it always turns out sticky!)
I don't know how to open a coconut
I don't know how to make coffee (I don't drink the stuff)
I don't know how to properly pick ripe limes (they all look green to me)

My concept of what I should know changes  on a daily bases.  I often feel proud of the fact that I know how to do something that many others do not...BUT here, out of my element, more often than not I feel embarrassed by the things that I do NOT know.  It's really cool to learn a whole new skill-set that you never knew was important! 

Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

Monday, September 28, 2009

Playa then Tulum

After an exhausting two weeks in Cancun we decided to take a little rest in Playa del Carmen.  We were only there for about 3 days and moslty stayed in and recooperated.  We did manage to make it out for a lovely lobster dinner though...super tasty!  Playa is expensive like Cancun but still has a Mexican flavor...you can still find small street vendors and small little restaurants that are pretty cheap.  Aside from our lobster dinner we managed to hang pretty cheap.  The hostal we stayed in was nice and had airconditioning...a welcomed change from little or no airconditioning for 2 weeks! 
After only 3 days in Playa we decided to head out for Tulum!  It is an interesting place for sure...there are many hotels/posadas/hostals to stay in but along the beach they are pretty rustic.  There are many hotels that are probably pretty expensive but they are still small and un-Americanized.  The beach here is straight out of a movie...there are stretches of beaches with no people only the crystal clear blue water and white-white sand. 
The hostal we stayed in is a sister hostal of the Happy Gecko where we stayed in Playa.  It was recommended to us by the receptionist.  This hostal was bar far the most rustic we have stayed in but fit perfectly with the atmosphere here.  We stayed in a small stilted cabaña (there were blue crabs everywhere) without electricty.  No electricity means no fans, no lights, no computers...it was definately an experience.  The hostal prides itself on being "eco-friendly" which also means that they don´t use any fresh water.  Only ground water which is mixed with the salt water from the ocean.  Makes for sticky skin and slimy hair after showering.  We met some very cool "rasta" type people who mostly had come to Tulum for vaca and never left.  Very typical pot-smoking, dreaded, shirtless hippies...ha! 
There were bicycles included in the hostal so we decided to venture to the nature reserve that was "just down the road" according to one of the rastamen at the hostal.  I have decided that never again will I trust a Mexican when they tell you how far something is...it is always WAY further!  We biked about 9km in rocky, pot-holed, unpaved road.  I almost started crying.  I had eaten nothing and did not put on sun screen before we left (I am making myself sound pretty stupid here) but we were also told there was a restaurant and didn´t expect to bike for 2 hours in the scortching sun!  When we finally arrived I thought I was going to die.  The reserve turned out to be really cool but had nothing of a restaurant or even a place to refill our water...
On our way back we stopped at a restaurant about 1/2 way.  We ate, rehydrated, and watched the sunset at an idyllic overlook!  It was awesome!  We also got to view and touch some baby turtles that were going to be hand placed in the ocean by some of the hotel guests.  But...when we left one of the bikes had a flat tire...Lalo biked back to the hostal and they came back for me in the beat up VW van!  Whew I somehow avoided the long bike trip back!
Yesterday we visited the ruins here in Tulum.  They are cool but when you have seen the ruins in Palenque and Chichen Itza its hard to compare.  The Mayans did however know what they were doing when they built their city here...Tulum is absolutely gorgeous...I promise to upload photos soon!  The ruins are scortching with few trees for shade but luckily there is a refreshing beach to take a dip!  We stayed a couple of hours...gotta work on my tan! 
After the ruins we walked a few km to another beach where we ordered a beer and relaxed...I can see why people never leave here! 
Today we decided to switch hostals as we both woke up with what feels like thousands of mosquito bites!  We found another close to the ruins and the beaches we visited yesterday which also include bikes...so today we´re gonna head to the beach again!  Gotta be nice and bronzed when I head back to the states! 
I´m feeling excited and a bit nervous to head back...I´m not going to pretend I am completely accustomed to my life here but let´s face it...I don´t have much responsibility, I don´t have a job, I wake up and decide what I want to do today...i´m about to head back to reality!  Not to mention that I honestly have not spoken much English in the last 3 months...hello English!  Of course it will be fine but I oddly feel a little nervous....
What a life I lead...
Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Let me bring you up-to-date!




Going on almost 2 weeks that we have now been in Cancun. I have been partying my ass off (which is not really my style) but it has been loads of fun! But...I'm ready to get the F out of here!


After leaving Merida we made a quick stop in Valladolid and saw the ruins in Chichen Itza. They were fabulous! We hitched on to a couple who had hired a guide and we got the whole tour for free! Free things have definately been a theme on this trip (it never hurts to ask right?)!


When we arrived in Valladolid we both agreed that we were feeling a little exhausted and worn out from 2 months of travelling. I suggested we take a small break in Cancun and stay at a nice place. We found an AWESOME deal online for an all-inclusive. Since it's low-season here you can find some pretty great deals...about $60 per day for both of us!!!


Our first day here we met an awesome couple (Brittney and Miguel). They were just our style as Brittney is from Ohio and Miguel is from Ecuador. I think the boys had a little bromance going on ;) They are lots of fun!


We pretty much spent the remainder of the time with them and when Miguel had to leave early to see his dying aunt we relunctantly ;) agreed to stay with Brittney in her parents condo (free of charge).


We have been clubbing at XX, Daddy Rock, Coco Bongo, and The City. I'm clubbed out! I have drank more alcohol in the last 10 days than probably the last 6 months combined. Haha...hangover city! Too much fun!


We planned to leave Cancun Tuesday morning the 15th however, Brittney decided to change her flight and stay an extra few days...needless to say...we're still here!


We just couldn't leave without celebrating Mexico's independence day here!


It was pretty cool to be in the middle of a crowd full of Mexican pride screaming VIVA MEXICO!!!!!! I got the chills to be part of something like that! It was cool!


Cancun is super expensive, touristy and doesn't feel like Mexico. I'm hoping to won't be too hard to start up travelling again as I've gotten pretty used to some of the amenities (although the air-conditioning in the condo is broken and I've woken up several nights literally thinking that I was dying)


I'm getting super excited to travel back to the states for Cora's wedding and can't wait to see the rents!


It's funny how much I thought I missed all the luxuries of the states but now that I am here in Cancun/America I miss rural Mexico. I miss all the small, delicious and cheap restaurants; cheap taxi and bus fares; wonderful authentic clothes and shoes; and friendly people not trying to take advantage of you!

I absolutely have fallen in love with Mexico and could see myself here for awhile (sorry fam)! It's a truly amazing place!


Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos pronto!


Monday, September 14, 2009

I'm Alive!

Yes...I'm alive and well and still in Cancun! Been partying my ass off with great friends and a beautiful Oaxacan! Promise to update soon with lots of pictures from all my clubbing adventures!

Adios....Besitos....Nos vemos pronto!

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Sisters!




We arrived in Merida on Wednesday night. We were forced to take ADO (oh darn) because the second class bus was 2.5 hours longer and would put us into Merida at 11:30 pm. Never a good idea to arrive in a city really late as finding a hostal becomes a litltle tricky. We schlepped our bags about 15 blocks to one of the best hostals we've stayed in yet (only because it has a pool)! We've spent most of Thursday and Friday water-logged! Merida is just as hot as Campeche which makes day walking extremely sweaty and sometimes unbearable.
We met Jen on Thursday night for a wonderful dinner at Pancho's. It was great to see Jen and fun to share some stories. It felt really nice to be with family. We started at Pancho's on recommendation from Jen's host mother. We had a few apps and a drink and decided to move on to another place called Choperia. Would have been great if we could have found it! We walked around about 15 minutes and then decided to go back to Pancho's. We ordered a bottle of wine, awesome food, and even dessert! When you live on a budget of 420 pesos per day restaurant food becomes something of the past. I felt like I wanted to hide a little in my pocket for later...haha! We laughed alot and had a great time...thanks Mom and Dad for footing that bill!
Yesterday we made the standard trip to Walmart where we ate lunch. We hit up the samples in the bakery area more than once!
We also stopped at several car rental places to check out prices. We're thinking of renting a car to get from here to Cancun/Tulum area. There are about 5 stops along the way we'd like to see and I think renting a car would be a nice change and also really fun (although not sure how fun Mexican highway driving will be). We're still deciding...
Tonight we have plans to meet up with Jen and some of her new friends. I've heard the weekends in Merida are the best as there are lively markets and lots of energy! Can't wait to keep exploring! Seeing Jen has been bitter-sweet...so absoulutely wonderful to see your sister after 3 months but also makes me miss home that much more. I've felt a little homesick for family and comfort. I guess it's all part of the journey...
Adios...besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Campeche, Campeche

We arrived in Campeche via wind tunnel...and by wind tunnel I mean a 1980's model Chevy pick-up with all four windows rolled down speeding down the highway at 120 km per hour! Interesting experience got even more interesting when it started to rain and we had to put our bags in the cab with us...I was nearly smothered by my backpack in the backseat between Lalo and a sweet little old lady being whipped (hard) in the face by my hair!
We arrived about 15 blocks away from the hostal we planned to stay in. I was soaked in sweat by the time we arrived...and the hostal looked nothing like the website had promised. We stayed anyway. The first night there were few other travellers and we almost had the dorm to ourselves...until our friend Robert arrived. He is volunteer for the Peace Corp in Veracruz. I was dying to know his story...he was not the typical Peace Corp volunteer...about 45, quiet, a little strange. He filled me in a bit but the rest will have to remain a mystery...he left this morning.
Campeche is a peaceful town that looks like it could be the setting for a movie. The "Centro" is walled in, the streets are cobblestone, and the buildings are very colonialesque. It's really quite beautiful...would be amazing if it wasn't so blasting hot! It's a 2 shower a day city...especially when you forget deodorant...oops!
Yesterday we went to the beach...Playa Bonita. The people here are very friendly and the city is easy to navigate...a welcomed change from Tabasco! The water was not the cool relief I was expecting..it was hot like bathwater! Lalo was less than pleased when a street dog managed to steal the 3 pieces of chicken we purchased and saved for later!
Today we meandered...took a trip to the Walmart which Lalo insisted upon because he had never seen one. Imagine that...
It's about to rain here...which it does about this time everyday. Hard, hard rain...fill the streets hard. In several cities we have been the street curbs have been really high (there are steps to get up them) and I never understood why until I saw it rain!
Enjoying Campeche and enjoying Mexico. It's starting to feel like home (don't worry it won't be permanantly). What an amazing journey...
Adios...Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Ciudad del Carmen


Arrived on a second class bus...again! ADO is the major bus service here in Mexico...and if you don't have enough money to use it...you sure know it! We hopped on a bus that I was sure going to fall apart any minute! I longingly looked out the window at the luxury buses that crossed our path...they had windows, and cushioned seats, airconditioning, a bathroom, everyone got a seat!
Carmen is and island...and there is not much to do here.
We tried to visit the beaches. They were ugly, dirty and unswimmable.
Our hostal is interesting. I guess 150 pesos a night doesn't buy cleanliness or a toilet seat.
We were about to leave this morning when the owner of the hostal mentioned they were going to Campeche tomorrow. We'll save 224 pesos by hitching a ride. Hopefully we won't be murdered...haha!
We've just been hanging out...went to Chedraui today. The Mexican equivalent of Cub Foods. Bought a bag of pasta for 1 peso. 1 peso. Some had bugs in them but I guess that is normal.

Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

Monday, August 17, 2009

WOWZA!

I'm gonna be brief and this is gonna be that last time I mention this...
Just found out my ex-husband (of only 4 months I might add) is re-married and expecting a child. How are you supposed to feel when you find out something like this?
I felt sad. I used to think we would have kids together and now he will share that with someone else. I don't want him back and I don't want to share that with him anymore. I know I made the right choice...but geez...
I had a feeling. He continues to follow me in my dreams. I can't seem to shake him. I don't want him back. I just don't want to be curious anymore.
WEIRD!

Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Paraiso, Tabasco


Los Tabasquenos, as they are called, are an interesting breed...and they'll be the first ones to admit it! More on that later...
When we arrived in town we quickly ventured to the zocalo...pretty much everything is central from there. I was quickly aware of the fact that again, I was the only gringa within 20 miles. All eyes were on me...It feels weird. Sometimes I just want to stop and say WHAT, WHAT...YES I'M A GRINGA! Lalo and I make the joke that we should start charging for views! 50 pesos to take a look and 100 pesos to touch!
We found a great little Posada run by the sweetest family. There are 2 boys, Arturo 18 and Fernando, 9. Fernando is a little spit fire and i'm pretty sure he has a minor crush on me. He told me he wants me to stay for a month! Awwww...He loves Micheal Jackson and has asked me to translate pretty much every song he has ever written...OWWW CROTCH GRAB!
They have a sweet little chihuahua named Nena that I have taken under my wing.
Last night they drove us to Puerto Celba, a sweet little boardwalk where people like to hang out at night...we drank a beer and then they dropped us off at the local watering-hole. We had a fun night drinking a few beers and listening to horrible Mexican dance music. We ate tacos at 3:30 am. I made friends with the waiter who had worked in the U.S.. Our "Posada Mother" was awake when we arrived back and worried...very cute!
Now Los Tabasquenos are an interesting breed...here they call it "mal educado". We went to look for tourist information...we were sent to 7 different locations. At the seventh all we could do was laugh. They gave us a xeroxed map of the city...it didn't even include street names. Upon arriving at the bus terminal we were told 10 different things by 10 different people about how to get to the beach. No one knows what they are talking about here! Over 1.5 hours later we finally arrived at the beach after taking the most rickety bus labeled "playa"...Figures!
I had an interesting conversation with Fernando last night...sometimes the speaking of another language is hard to grasp...He was asking me questions like how do I know what words mean in English, how did I learn it, do I think in English...his mother shooshed him but I was quick to tell him that it is sometimes hard to wrap your mind around the fact that other people think in a different language...that they can understand words without even thinking about it! Of course! I'm still figuring it all out myself...
My spanish is really improving...I'm almost to the point where I don't even have to think about what I want to say before I say it. Of course there are missing vocabulary words and I don't think I'll ever master Mexican Modismo or "slang" but i'm hanging in there!
Mexico is beautiful, amazing, and full of incredible people!
When I find myself desperately missing my family or a homecooked meal I just think about when I'm 50 and i'll look back and say..."remember the time I lived in Mexico!"

P.S. Peanut Butter and Jelly cures the need for "American" food!

Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Still in Villahermosa!


I am still sweating here in Villahermosa. It has been hotter than sin! On Tuesday we ventured to El Parque La Venta where we saw lots of Olmec carvings and also animals in the zoo. Zoo´s have been a common theme throughout our travels. Yesterday we went to Yumka Park. We took a combi to get there (10 pesos each) and after about 30 minutes I thought to myself...uh oh, we are not going where we thought we were going! I looked at Lalo and he basically said the same thing to me...I was shocked! He usually doesn´t worry about stuff like that. We started laughing but within about 2 minutes we arrived at the park...it was pretty funny though. We were travelling on dirt roads with nothing but cows and chickens and a few scattered houses. The park was really cool. It is a nature reserve where the animals are allowed to roam freely throughout the park. We took a trolly through the reserve where we were able to see giraffes, zebras, and elefants about 10 feet away. I felt a little scared but no one else seemed the least bit bothered that there was a humongous elefant about 10 feet away.
I have been forgetting to eat before we leave for our adventures and when we arrive food is either unavailable or really expensive...I haven´t eaten anything until 5 pm the last 2 days. I was fricken starving and ate 1/2 a chicken in about 15 minutes...I felt sick afterward.
I´m a little sick of the food...I don´t even know what I miss either...its weird.
Today we are gonna leave for the beach...we don´t have tickets and we don´t know where we´re going but it all has worked out so far!
I´m learning how to live in close proximity with another person without annoying them and without them annoying the shit out of me....
We´re doing a pretty good job...occasional arguments mostly over stupid stuff...mostly over me not paying attention or doing something stupid...Hey I´m learning!
I met a girl on the bus to Villahermosa who told me I was really brave to do what I´m doing...until she said that I never felt brave.
Still learning and getting accustomed to everything here! I´m really enjoying my time!

Shout out to all my girlies at Cora´s Bachelorette party this weekend in Denver...I´m sad to miss it! I´ll be there in spirit and i´ll be thinking alot about you!
Adios...Besitos...Nos Vemos Pronto!