Teeeeet-cher!

I tought my first class on Thursday!  I am in training right now with one of Cambrian's directors.  Her name is Oris and she is a lot of fun!  She asked me on Wednesday if I thought that I could handle Thursday's class as she is doing double duty as director and teacher.  I wanted to say HELL NO but I didn't want her to think that I wasn't capable so I went ahead and said yes.  They use a book called Traveller that has lessons and activities laid out for you.  I made some photocopies of her book and went on my way, nervous as hell to teach my first class. 
The class is level 1 beginners which is somewhat relieving and terrifying at the same time.  Level 1 beginners don't know enough to ask you many questions and are new to each topic.  However, level 1 beginners also don't understand much English at all which means you have to talk using lots of simple language and hand jestures.  Listen...touch your ears, speak...touch your mouth, etc. 
As scared as I was to teach the class, it actually went really well.  I tought the lessons "What do you do?" and Capital letters.  "What do you do?" involved a lot of occupation vocabulary and also the difference between a and an.  Ex.  I am a nurse or I am an architect.  We played a game where I taped an occupation on the back of each student and they had to go around the glass and guess "Am I a mechanic?" and so forth.  Students replied "No you aren't" or "Yes you are"  I also played another game where I gave the students clues to who I was by saying things like "I work on cars, who am I?"  This involved more unfamiliar vocabulary and lots of acting! 
I also taught capital letters and lowercase letters.  We reviewed all the situations when you use capital letters: to start a sentence, names of people or places, nationalities, etc.  I also integrated lowercase letters as there is not much to them. 
I really enjoyed the class and aside from the dreaded stand-in-front-of-the-class sweats all went very smoothly.  On Friday the students had a quiz and I must proudly say that all the students got 100% on the parts that I taught!  ;)
I'm excited to have my own class!  It feels fulfilling to know that you are teaching someone something of value that can help better their lives!  I wasn't sure how well I was actually going to like teaching, but after my first week I find myself excited to see what comes next!

Adios....Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Bum no more!

I got a job!  It was as simple as showing up to the Cambrian Institute that I visited last April and the director Roberto was basically like can you start today?  I will be doing about a month of training and I officially start April 12th when the new session starts.  I don't know many of the details yet...I went on Friday to observe but it was Dia de la Samaritana* and there was just a party and graduation ceremony.
The school is growing which is a good sign...they already opened another close to here in another colonia.  I have the option to work in both schools which could be fun.  There are several other foreign teacher which I am excited about...potential new non-Mexican friends! 
As far as pay goes...I don't really want to talk about it!  I will earn enough to support myself here but in comparison to what I earn in the states it is nothing.  However, I will have alot more free time...there are just classes in the morning and in the evening so I will have about 5 hours in the day to myself! 
I'm excited, a little nervous and anxious!  All the unsual feelings when beginning something new!

*Dia de la Samaritana celebrated around this time every year is a Oaxacan tradition where women make an agua de sabor or flavored water to give to others.  They dress up in traditional clothes to pass out the agua.  They decorate a stand with trees and flowers.  The aguas are delicious!  My favorite is agua de sandia or watermelon.  There was also one called chilacayota which is pumpkin water...sounds gross but is actually very delicious!  They are all made with natural ingredients which make them extra delicious!

Adios...nos vemos...Besitos!

Kick Boxing and Dia de los Muertos (kind of)

Interested in finding new things to do in Oaxaca, I thought it would be fun to seek out various exercise classes.  The first I decided to try was kickboxing, in one of the gyms close to my apartment that offered a free session.  Lalo decided he would come with, although he claims to have never officially "exercised" in his life.  We arrived a little early and enjoyed seeing the various exercise outfits that Mexico has to offer.  Most included shorts just a little too short or lycra just a little too tight! 
Our instructor made a show of us by making it obligatory to stand in the front row so he could show us exactly how to do the moves.  His moves looked like they were copied directly out of Karate Kid, with none of the coordination or skill.  He looked like a kid showing off his new karate moves.  I had to laugh.  He continuously corrected mine and Lalo's "moves" making what we were doing all that more painfully awkward.  One kick included a full turn, like a ballerina or ice skater.  The room included floors that were slicker than ice and sauna-like temperatures!  We were sweating our asses off, doing round house kicks, being encouraged to kick ourselves in the face!  Oh yeah and we were also encouraged to hold our breath while exercising.  When I said it made me feel dizzy he said that was GREAT!  Where did you get your licence again?
Needless to say I don't think I will be heading back to that gym, even if it is only $250 pesos per month for a membership!  I was quite sore the following 2 days so maybe it wasn't such a bad workout afterall. 

On Monday I had the pleasure of being invited to the 1 year anniversary of the death of Lalo's grandfather Eugenio.  It was really amazing to see the amount of tradition involved in death here.  There was a large sand effigy created on the floor surrounded by candles and flowers.  The effigy is made with colored sand and included a cross and his initials.  Esther and Flavio, Lalo's aunt and uncle, made homemade pozole.  Around 7pm we went to the church for mass, where I had no idea what to do.  Of course we were sititng in the front row and I continuously had to look at other people in order to know what to do.  Afterwards we went back to Lalo's house where around 100 people followed.  The room with the effigy and candles is a prayer room and they pray and recite bible versus.  I found myself super interested in what was going on, because first I have never had anyone close to me pass away and second it was completely different than anything I have ever seen.  The what I would call pallbearers removed the candles and flowers and scraped up the sand, destroying the beautiful design and created a cross replacing the flowers and candles all around it.  There were hundreds of flowers and picture of Eugenio.  It was really beautiful. 
Once all the praying was done, I helped serve coffee and sweets.  Next came the pozole.  I helped pass out tostadas, pass out pozole and the toppings, and refill coffee.  It was funny to see people stare at me wondering who the heck I was.  I felt a little out of place but just continued to help out figuring that was the best way to avoid lots of questions. 
Yesterday we visited Eugenio's grave.  The cemetary was yet another fascinating experience.  The cemetary is a colorfully decorated yet gruesomely rudimentary.  Most gravesites are heaps of dirt, leaving you feel like the bodies are right close to you.  The gravesite is not purchased forever, rather rented year to year.  Those who forget or neglect to pay lose their site.  The marker is removed and another body is buried right on top!  Many graves have elaborate decorations; flowers, gifts, drinks, food, pictures.  For many Mexicans it is as if the grave is a replica of their loved one and neglecting the grave would be neglecting the dead.  I found myself wandering around the cemetery checking out all the graves! 
I find myself experiencing and understanding new pieces of the this culture daily.  While some make me thankful for the 1st world from which I came, many also make me long for what seems to be lost in the American culture. 

Adios...nos vemos pronto...Besitos!

Here I go again on my own...

Roughly three weeks after arriving in Mexico, I am officially moved into my new apartment.  It's small but cute and after a few purchases has everything I need.  When I arrived, I was staying with Lalo and his family on the outskirts of the city, about a 25 minute walk.  Unfortunately this means that there isn't always water in the house or that it will be hot!  Here in the city, there is always water and the apartment has a solar water heater which means I will luxiously enjoy hot showers every morning!  I am only about 4 blocks from the Zocalo or main square where many go nightly for an icecream or just a leisurely stroll.  The zocalo is almost always full of people meandering about buying up local items or eating at one of the many cafes that encircle it.  I am loving living here in the city, walking around in the sunshine and enjoying the unique shops and yummy restaurants! 
My first time here in Oaxaca I lived with a family not too far from where I am living now, which never forced me to take the city bus.  Fortunately, this time around I have had Lalo to show the ropes!  I adventured to the Bodega Aurrera (Mexico's Wal-Mart) alone today for the first time on the city bus.  My only mistake was stepping out in what I thought was a cute yellow sundress.  Rather, it screamed look at me and honk or whistle.  I get that I am a gringa and stand out, but today I truly felt like a sore-thumb!  I much prefer to blend in with the majority of Oaxacans, with the occasional glance or stare. 
I had the pleasure of celebrating my birthday here in Oaxaca, and although it was a litle sad to be without my family, Lalo's family prepared a wonderful celebration!  We had tasajo and tripa from the 20 de Noviembre Market complete with guacamole, pico de gallo, and tortillas.  Estelita bought me my favorite tres leches cake and a beautiful 3 layer gelatina!  It was all very delicious!  Later Lalo and I went out with several of his cousins and a couple of friends! 
I learned today that the ex and wife had their baby, a boy named Cooper.  Again, the same weird feeling.  I had a little pity party for myself sad that he has moved on has a new family.  It's very strange how much life can change in a couple years.  Here I am living in a beautiful city in southern Mexico when just 2 years ago, I would have found myself sitting on the lovely green couch I picked out in the house we bought in Montrose.  I am a million miles away, mentally and physically, and happy to be so.  Congrats to us both! 
I am happy to be the out-of-place gringa living amidst a sea of Mexicans!  Here's to what shall come next!

Adios...besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Adventure Part Dos

After nearly a two month stint in Minneapolis, enjoying all the lovely weather and trecherous roads that MN has to offer, I'm on my way back to Mexico.  I have to admit cashiering at the good old B'Smith is hardly my dream job but it'll do in times of desperation (and by desperation I mean arriving home with less than $50 in my bank account!). 
It has been wonderful spending time with my family and friends and I must admit this time feels a little different.  Knowing that I was going back, I never quite established a routine or really anything resembling a "life" here.  I have sort of just been living to go back.  But now that it is time to back, I'm kind of anxious.  Nervous, excited anxious but anxious all the same.  This time, I have to prove myself to all those who have put up with me saying "I've just been travelling for the last 5 months of my life".  I really can't complain, and those have been the best 5 months of my life to date, but now I have to buckle down, get a job and make something of myself. 
I'm tempted to take my tax return, birthday money, and cash that I saved up from 'Smithing and travel the western coast of South America.  There is no better time when you have people to visit!  The lure of shotty buses, cheap street food, and carrying everything you own in a small backpack actually sounds pretty inviting! 
So, for now I'm gonna go back with some tentative plans that include finding a job and getting an apartment but also leave my options open.  I'm young, divorced, with a little money in my pocket and it is my time to decide what I want to do with those options. 
As I once again set out on yet another chapter I'm going to make myself one promise:  Be true to myself!

Adios...Besos...Nos vemos pronto!

Oops its been almost a month since my last post...

I cannot believe it has almost been a whole month since my last post...and what a great month it has been.  I left off my last post in Guatamala and I have managed to cover 3 more countries since: El Salvador, Nicaragua, and I now find myself in Costa Rica.  Let me see how quickly I can get this thing up to date!
After leaving Semuc Champey Guatamala we headed for Antigua.  Antigua was yet another fabulous colonial city with cobblestone streets and endless streets that all seemed to look the same.  Antigua was cold and rainy but we somehow managed to squeek out some memorable moments ;)  We visited Pacaya the volcano about 1.5 hours outside of Antigua.  Let me preface this by saying the hike was incredibly hard.  So incredibly hard that I couldn't make it all the way to the top to witness the flowing lava.  Although I was super bummed at my lack of physical prowess, I did get to see the photos which looked incredibly dangerous!

Pacaya's flowing lava!

 

Looks scary to me!

Aside from the volcano we also spent lots of time wandering the streets, eating the food, and drinking the local beer. We were lucky enough to run into some friends from Alaska we had met in Flores. They are a group of 6: Andrea, Angela, Sean, Kim, Joe, and Jaymes and we all have become very close and have continued to travel together! Before we left Antigua we stumbled upon a celebration in the zocalo and stuffed ourselves with all the delicious food!

Yummy market food stalls!

From Antigua we headed for Santa Ana, El Salvador.  We hopped on the bus headed for the border expecting little problems.  How wrong we were.  The border crossing into El Salvador required the border agents to inspect and revise everything that you are bringing into the country.  The agents boarded the bus and while we were waiting our turn for them to stamp our passports we see out the window that one of the agents is pulling out all of the contents of Lalo's piercing supply box.  We grabbed our stuff and hopped off of the bus.  The driver tried to help us out by offering a little bribe but to no avail the agents wanted reciepts and paperwork for all the jewelry and needles in the box.  Without this paperwork they were going to confiscate the box. We refused and stayed with the box as we watched our bus we just each paid 120 quetzales for roll on into El Salvador.  After several frustrating hours they finally decided we could simply pay a $20 tax and be on our way.  Our only problem now was that it was dark, our bus left, and we had no ride into Santa Ana, our predetermined destination.  We were probably a little crazy for doing so, but we hitched a ride with a truck driver into Santa Ana.  The story from here gets even better.  The truck we hitched a ride with was overloaded and so we crawled to Santa Ana.  A ride that normally should take 1 hour took at least 2.  The truck was filled with valuables so a police escort followed closely behind us (sounds safe!).  Once we arrived in Santa Ana, the police escort took us into the city.  We were dropped at the gas station and found a taxi to take us to a hostal listed in my Lonely Planet.  Upon arriving to the hostal our cab driver informed us we were in a sketchy area known as la puteria or the prostitution zone.  One look around and I knew he was right.  He offered to take us to another hostal closer to the main plaza.  By this time it was around 10pm and we were starving.  We found another place that charged $10 for the night...perfect!  Or NOT!  We took a quick look at the room and hastily agreed it would do for the night.  It looked somewhat clean and was in the main area of town.  After unloading all of our stuff I took a better look around the room and noticed the sign on the wall which listed the prices for the room...by the hour!  There was also a switch on the wall for music..in case things got too loud!  The creeper running the place just smiled when I said "so you can rent the room by the hour?".  Needless to say we slept in our clothes that night on tried to touch as few things as possible.  We were out of there as quickly as possible in the morning.  We found little to do in Santa Ana other than a visit to the gothic style cathedral.

 

After Santa Ana, we opted for the beach.  We decided on a little surf spot called El Tunco.  We found a great little hostal called Papaya's Lodge, owned by local surfing legend Jaime Delgado.  We were excited to yet again run into our friends from Alaska and proceeded to spend the next 10 days relaxing, partying, and eating in El Tunco.  El Tunco is a magical tiny little surf village filled with fabulously friendly people, amazing fresh seafood, and a totally relaxing atmosphere.  We met lots of local surfers, featured in magazines and famous in the surfing community.  Although I don't surf and wasn't interested in attempting it in 10 foot waves, we enjoyed the company of our new friends.  Several times we went into town and bought fresh seafood at the pier.  We had a seafood stew with shrimp and lobster one night and the next sauteed shrimp with butter and garlic.  So cheap and so delicious! 

Playa Tunco

Crowded bus to Libertad

El muelle for fresh seafood

We hadn't planned on staying in El Tunco for 10 days but it seemed like we never wanted to leave.  We met lots of cool locals and were even joined for a couple of days by our friend Miguel from Oaxaca and his girlfriend.  We had planned on making our way to Honduras but 2 days before we planned to leave the border closed.  There was some political unrest due to upcoming elections.  Instead of heading to Honduras we decided to follow our friends to San Salvador for the night and then off to Nicaragua at 4am. 

Arriving in San Salvador after our Tunco visit was a bit overwhelming.  San Salvador is a bustling, noisy city filled with chain restaurants and luxurious hotels.  We all decided we were going to treat ourselves to sushi at the nearby Intercontinental Hotel.  When we went to scope out the hotel we had the pleasure of running into my friend Brady and his mom.  I knew he was stationed in El Salvador and we had talked several times about meeting up but with our extended stay in El Tunco I wasn't sure we were going to make it happen.  To my surprise Brady and his mom were checking in to the hotel right as we were checking it out.  We got to share a few beers and stories over sushi later that night.  It was really nice!  We had to wake up the following morning at 4am to catch our bus to Nicaragua so our meeting was short but very sweet. 

So many times along this trip I have had people tell me about the danger of travelling to certain areas.  My dad almost shit his pants when I told him I was travelling in El Salvador, through Honduras and Nicaragua.  I think his exact words were "get the fuck out of there as soon as you can!".  However, I have never seen such beautiful country or met so many fabulous people.  Of course there are dangers everywhere you go, BUT my experiences have been overwhelmingly positive.  I cannot imagine missing out on anything that I have seen so far, and am sure that I will never quite be the same.  I have found myself telling myself many times along the way "wow, look at where I am right now!" and often times cannot really believe it.  Travelling has been such a wonderful experience and my only complaint is that it has sparked a hunger for more.  I want to see it all and experience it all!

That's all for now...more to come soon!

Adios...Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!

Lanquin/Semuc Champey...Indescribable beauty!

Our shuttle ride from Flores to Lanquin was an interesting one to say the least.  We paid 150 quetzales each for a DIRECT ride to Semuc Champey.  We were told it would be a 7 hour ride.  It was neither direct, nor 7 hours.  More than 10 hours later, 3 of which were spent in a cramped collectivo bobbling down an unpaved curvy road with a driver talking on his cell phone the whole time, we arrived in Lanquin.  As if that weren't enough we encountered 2 snags...the first was about 2 hours in to the trip when we came to a river which required a small ferry boat to cross.  Unaware of any accident I slyly remarked..."there is only one ferry for all these cars" (there were probably over 100 waiting!).  Turns out a semi had tried to maneuver itself onto the ferry when it began to pull away from the shore...this was the result:

Oops!

They had to just destroy the semi to get it out!

I figured this would delay our trip by several hours but fortunately it was only about a 45 minute delay!  The second snag came when we arrived in Coban around 3:30..we left at 9...already 6.5 hours in...the driver slyly told us that he would no longer be able to continue to Semuc Champey or Lanquin and we would have to switch to another bus.  We griped heavily because again we paid for a DIRECT shuttle...needless to say we all (minus 2 Dutch girls who decided it was too dangerous to travel this way and at night) smashed into a collectivo.  Our friend Sam was part of our group too! It didn't leave until 4:30 but we needed to stay on the bus in order to secure our spots....7.5 hours into the trip!  Better yet we were informed the trip to Lanquin, which we were told would take 1.5 hours, was actually a 3-3.5 hour ride depending on how many people they could pack into that thing!  They packed it....we crawled through the hilly ride.  When we arrived in Lanquin around 8:00 pm the extra 45 minute ride to Semuc was impossible.  We stayed in Lanquin and I am SOOO happy we did.  Our friend Sam had heard of a new hostal that had just opened 2 months earlier called the Zephyr.  I had only read about a hostal called El Retiro which is where all the travellers stay when they come to Lanquin...we had a much better experience!  This was it:

Nestled in the mountains, next to Rio Lanquin, and run by some wonderful people, we couldn't have asked for a better place to stay in such a beautiful surrounding.  The hostal offers nightly community dinners cooked using all fresh ingredients and priced around $4.50!  Elle, along with some of their Guatamalteca employees cooked awesome meals including: red peppers stuffed with rice and meat with a beet and bean salad, homemade pasta with a creamy vegetable sauce, borshed (sp?) soup, and even a chocolate cake for Lalo's birthday!  We were in heaven!  If homecooked meals weren't enough they had a baker come in every night to bake fresh bead, cinnamon buns, and rolls for the following day.  To all my fellow Breadsmithers: I spent about an hour chatting with the baker and he definately gives our bread a run for its money! 

Happy Birthday Lalito!

And if homemade meals and fresh baked bread still don't impress you let me tell you about the showers.  The showers had piping hot water, great water pressure, and a view that can't be beat.  Now when you haven't had a decent shower in months, things like hot water and water pressure become really important!  No joke...myself and the other guests had about a ten minute conversation raving about the showers!  

Although the Zephry is foreign owned, they employ plenty of local Guatamaltecos.  One by the name of Otto, who was our guide, quickly became our friend!  He was truly an amazing man and made our trip to the caves and pools at Semuc-Champey unforgettable! 

We decided to do the tour of Semuc with a couple other people from the hostal, with our guide Otto.  The day started bight and early at 9am.  We woke up a bit hung-over as we partied at the hostal bar the night before.  There were several birthdays we just HAD to celebrate!  Nothing like a day full of adventure to cure a hang over.  Now i'm going to admit I pretty much had no idea what I was getting myself into when I signed up to do this Semuc tour.  All I really knew was that there were natural pools that you can swim in.  I should have been warned.  Although I may seem adventurous at heart, physically I am NOT!  The tour started in the caves in Semuc.  Now these caves are not like the caves we visited in Flores because they are filled with water.  We were asked to strip down to our suits, our flip-flops were tied to our feet, and we left behind anything of value. 

We were going to swim, wade, and scale our way through this cave.  Almost immediately I wanted to quit.  The chill of the water hitting my body quickly sent a shock telling me DANGER, DANGER.  Well, I did not turn around or quit!  I made my way though this cave...and without experiencing it, I don't quite know how to describe it.  All I can say is that if this tour existed in the states you would have to sign about 1,000 waivers before entering.  At one point you have to scale a ladder with a waterfall running down it.  Not a small waterfall either.  A couple of the guys chose to scale the waterfall...there was a rope inside the waterfall and they scaled it with water gushing in their face.  When asked if I wanted to try it I promptly replied...UM NO!  It was Awesome and I felt so cool that I did it...everone else thought it was equally as cool but didn't find it nearly as terrifying!

Next on the tour was a swing.  Now this swing swung out into a rapidly running river and you probably jumped 15 feet into the water.  I DID IT!  Scared to death and screaming all the way down but I did it.  I was also afraid of being swept down river so I swam like hell to get back to shore!

Next, we hawled an innertube up river where we encountered several waterfalls.  In order to cross over to the entrance of the waterfalls you needed to cross some swiftly moving water.  Otto threw a rope to a fallen tree and we pulled ourselves across.  Poor Lalo was close to drowning, when life jacket and all, he began to panic and couldn't pull himself across.  I was really scared for him but he managed to make it back to the tree.  He chose not to go to this waterfall.

Just to the left of the large waterfall you can see where I jumped 10 meters or about 30 feet to the river below.  It was so f$#%ing scary and it really hurt my ass!

I made it across and once across our guide gave us two choices: jump or climb back the way we came which in his words was "really dangerous".  I jumped!  HOLY SHIT, I JUMPED 10 METERS or almost 30 feet!  WTF!

We then tubed down the river and although Lalo was hesitant to get back in the water, he did it too!  We made it back to our starting point, had some lunch and began our hike to El Mirador or the Lookout.  This hike sucked!  It was uphill, super muddy, and I did it in flip-flops.  The view was worth it however:

Below you can see the natural pools that we swam in after our hike!

After our hike, we climbed back down and were able to relax in these wonderful pools that sit above a river that gushes through a natural cave/tunnel.  Our guide Otto told us of 3 people who had died curiously trying to touch the gushing water and their bodies didn't come out the other end for 45 days! 

Entrance to the tunnel under the pools

Lalo, our friend Sam, and our guide Otto relaxing in the pools!

Unbelievable beauty!

We also celebrated Lalo's birthday in Semuc Champey which was a little hard since we were so secluded.  I felt guilty that I didn't have a present to give or anything.  We did however, manage to get in a chocolate cake (see above photo!).  Before we left Semuc we threw in another night cave visit (again where I wanted to leave almost as soon as we entered).  The caves in Lanquin are interesting because each night as the sunsets (about 5:45) thousands...and I mean thousands...of bats fly out.  There are hardly ANY mosquitos in this highly forrested and wet area thanks to all these bats!  The cave is completely dark and the bats pretty much fly right at you without hitting you...not my idea of fun!  We explored the cave a bit and made the long walk back to the hostal in complete darkness...yikes! 

Great shot!

All I can say is that Semuc Champey was an adventure of a lifetime!  If ever in Guatamala it is something that cannot be missed!  Everyday I am surprising myself with the things that I get to experience along the way.  Although I find myself missing my family and my life at times, how can I leave behind these adventures when they are right at my finger tips!  I do get freaked out everytime I hear another friend just had a baby or is pregnant or even when someone gets engaged or married...I'm almost 27 and don't have any of those things...but for now I am going to settle (ha settle) for these adventures! 

Adios..Besitos...Nos vemos pronto!